Dateline - June 7th 5pm
It’s an early summer morning and I’m about to depart on the trip of a lifetime - eight days training and sightseeing in Moscow. Thanks to the organisational efforts of David Kirillov, a small group of English Systema-ites have the opportunity to spend some quality time at the heart of the Russian System.

So, a final check of the luggage - passport, documents, enough clothing to last a month, water the plants and we are away. Steve’s fiancee Natasha has kindly agreed to drop us at Heathrow and once we are all aboard (Steve, Jamie and I) we are off down the M11 and round the M25.

By 7am we are at Heathrow where we soon spy a couple of familiar faces - organisers David Kirillov and Val Riazanov, along with some of the rest of the group. Introductions and checking in done with, we go in search of caffeine.

Everyone seems quiet on the way out, lost in their own thoughts. Few of us know what to expect. We have all heard some many stories about visiting Russia - from no toilet paper through to unfriendly locals. However all the group have at one time or another trained with Mikhail in the UK, so we at least know that the work will be good. A few hours later, we touch down in Moscow. One hour later and we are through passport control (an event enlivened considerably by the appearance of a "super model" in our queue!)

So, out into the main part of the airport and the first pleasant surprise - Mikhail himself is there to greet us. We get loaded into the minibus and off we go. The trip to the hotel takes around 30 minutes and gives us our chance for a first look at Russia.

The hotel complex, we are told, is a private compound, reserved for the use of members of the police and security forces and their families. Through a couple of check points, and we are there.

Second pleasant surprise - the hotel is modern, clean and has full facilities. En-suite shower and bathroom, small balcony, yes, even toilet paper! So it’s unpack, freshen up and time for dinner. By this time the rest of the UK boys have arrived, some more familiar faces. A contingent from Switzerland have also arrived (the Swissnaz!). The mickey taking and back and forth banter has started already, setting the tone for the week.

Following dinner, we assemble together in a conference room on the 5th floor. Mikhail re-appears with a few more people and runs through the week’s itinerary. After that, each person in the room is asked to introduce themselves and give some details about their background and training. The cross - section of people becomes apparent, as well as the wealth of experience in a range of martial arts. Members of the Russian military are present, up to the rank of Major, having been sent across by their units to train with Mikhail. For these guys it is their first taste of the System, so it will be interesting to see their reaction.

Of course, the vodka now makes its first appearance and toasts are made all round. We then head for an early night, as training begins tomorrow…..

THE TRAINING
I’m not going to spend a lot of time detailing all the training. What I want to concentrate on more are observations, incidents that stood out in the mind and the overall feel and atmosphere of the workshops.

The first impression is of the friendliness of the people. There are about the same amount of Russian students as English (plus Swiss!), as well as the "new" Russian guys. Everyone mixes in together for the training and it was surprising - particularly after a few days - how little the language barrier mattered. A few gestures and touches conveyed all the information you needed to know. It was also apparent over the week just how much effort the Russian students were making to help the visitors.

In the past, I’ve visited other martial arts clubs outside of my own school and it was not uncommon to be "head hunted", in an effort to establish the superiority of that school I guess. Some of the guys I know who have travelled to Japan or other over seas schools and come back came back with tales of "foreigner bashing". There was none of that nonsense here, only good advice and patience.

A brief summary of the areas covered during the training includes breathing methods, exercises to prepare the body and mind, taking strikes, movement drills against sticks, kicks, the stick and the whip, knife work, mass attack, freeing a friend from locks and holds, running, rolling, floor work, dealing with kicks, learning to kick, work with the Cossack sabre and more.

While it sounds a lot - and it was - the point was continually stressed that it is all the same. Breathe, move, keep form and everything will be revealed. Mikhail also exhorted us to "be patient". Don’t rush, reach or try, just stick to the principles and things will happen. It’s something that sounds so easy that it is easy to disregard. In fact this is a profound level of work and something that Systema attempts to plug you straight into, rather than take you through years of stylised movement before then asking you to become "formless".

Some highlights -

Mikhail showing striking work on "Big Sergei". He explains how with precision it is possible to power the strike deep into the body. A seemingly light tap and Big Sergei drops, muscles twitching. Contorting himself, he uses his breathing to eventually "come back". After a few more demos Mikhail asks one of the "new" Russian guys to step forward. A young fit man, a special forces soldier and a skilled boxer. "Hit him" ask Mikhail. The guy shrugs and plants a couple of hits into Sergei. "No, really hit him" says Mikhail. Eventually the young boxer lets loose a flurry of full power strikes into Sergei’s stomach and ribs. Sergei’s reaction is a deep belly laugh - followed by the laughter of the rest of the group at seeing the boxer’s expression.

Mikhail demonstrating sabre work with "Siberian Sergei" (almost everyone there was called Sergei it seems!). Smooth fluid movement, nothing wasted.

Sergei Ozhereliev moving against Mikhail holding the stick, and then the cossack whip. No quarter given here, failure to move correctly punished immediately with a hard strike.

Paul Genge’s birthday being announced and everyone in the room lining up to shake his hand

Sergei B’s "bear walking", which then developed into him walking in an incredibly low squat, feet in line with each other like a tightrope walker, his back remaining straight.

A small personal revelation, courtesy of Sergei O, on responding correctly to taking strikes.

Seeing Jamie being attacked by a woman wielding a table tennis bat!

There are many, many memories of the training sessions that spread out over 5 days and the amount of information given out was truly phenomenal.

EXCURSIONS
Of course, some site seeing is always on the agenda when in foreign climes. For most of us, this was the first time in Russia, so we were all keen to see something of the culture and history. A minibus took us into the centre of Moscow and, following some negotiations with the tour guide, we were eventually allowed out to walk around.

The Russian government obviously knew we were coming, as on de-bussing outside the Kremlin we were greeted with a 21 gun salute, a Mig flypast and a firework display. Not only that, but the streets were lined with cheering crowds. Had we been mistaken for visiting dignitaries? No, it just happened to be Independence Day and the whole of Moscow was “on holiday” for a big parade and celebrations. We caught part of the parade, then headed onto the metro to Red Square. Following a very pleasant lunch we strolled around, taking in the sites of the Kremlin. Following that, we got a chance for a bit of shopping and then it was back to base to compare bargains.

Our other excursion was slightly less “luxurious” but none the less exciting and informative - the Spets base.
Our bus this time was a little less...modern? than our Moscow tour bus. Mikhail told us he wanted us to have an “authentic Experience” and so the old regimental coach had been pulled out of retirement (where it had been since WW1 I think).
So, suitably camo’d up, we clambered aboard for an eventful ride (I’ll spare the details but if I say “woof” those of you who were there will know what I mean). Into the Spets base - first impressions - spartan. Muddy terrain, a block of tents and some outbuildings. Off to one side stand a few helicopters, off to another side the burnt out shells of buildings used for urban assault practice.

Ahead we noticed a roped off area surrounded by Spets troops. Mikhail told us we had arrived at a special time. A group were going through final selection to qualify for the coveted maroon beret. Already that morning they had completed a 16km run in full kit, traversed swamp terrain (maintaining weapon in good firing order), practiced an urban assault and gone through the assault course. Now they faced the last test - 12 minutes continuous fighting against fresh members of the unit.....

PART TWO